Serving the Greater New Orleans Area Painting
A lot can be said about painting as you shall soon see. I feel that there is so much more to painting than just slapping paint on the wall. A quality paint job has a lot of prep work within a process that needs to be fully completed before I can feel confident that it was a success.
There are many differing methods and techniques when it comes to painting, so I'm just going to stick with the basic painting process that I experience the most.
First off, prep work is ninety percent of the job. Prep work includes protecting the floor and all other objects that's not to be painted, taping off of all edges (especially if there is a shaky hand), surface prep, and finally the painting process itself.
What I prefer and look for when I do painting is solid coverage, clean edges and an even finish that doesn't peel from the wall. I'm sure that most people do too, but I tend to be pretty particular and harder on myself when it comes to the work that I do.
The following is a description of the painting process that I generally follow when it comes to paint overs and new construction.
Painting method:
This is the basic painting process that I follow in the quest of procuring the best paint job possible.
First off, covering everything that you don't want to get paint on is a no brainer. It really helps when the homeowner clears out the room before any remodel and painting work gets done, but I can and do often assist.
Depending on what's being painted, this is where the processes Y's off depending on what stage of work is being done.
Prepping a previously painted wall requires a few steps before I even begin to paint.
Painting is a pretty standard process for everyone and most do follow procedure, but I've also seen where people shortcut the procedure of which has led to undesirable effects like paint peeling off the wall in large sheets. Ow.
Why two coats?
This is about paint and paint quality. I'm not brand specific as some are, but I don't use cheap paint, either. All brands like Valspar, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Behr, etc. all have their brand specific, good quality paints ($$$) and they all also have their cheap quality paints. Some paint brands are just so cheap in quality that I just won't ever go there, while some paint brands are considered better than others.
Some clients have their paint brand preference and that's fine with me. In my humble opinion, there is NO such thing as one coat paint- or at least I have never come across any, regardless what the paint can reads. I have never been satisfied with a one coat finish, for I like a good solid finish.
Paint voids happen when paint congeals as it dries, leaving little white spots where the paint didn't take as it draws up. Paint voids happen because the wall texture has micro deep pockets and the paint isn't able to get down into them. No matter how much rolling one does over an area on the first coat, paint voids happen as the paint dries.
Brush marks from cutting in edges and corners are visible, more so with one coat of paint. Use a better paint brush? I use Purdy sash brushes and straight brushes of all different sizes. Purdy paint brushes are good brushes and they aren't cheap. I always end up cutting in the edges twice to get the desired result that I can live with.
Paint is only 4-5 mils thick when painted, allowing it to be translucent in nature. Any mark that didn't get stainblocked will show, especially if the paint is light in color. Shadows of roller tracks can be seen; little white paint voids and brush marks stick out, especially if the paint is a dark color. With a one coat cover, I'm very dissatisfied and I can never walk away calling it done. A second coat, more times than none, will fix most of these painting ailments.
When it comes to charging for a paint job, I charge one amount or figure into an estimate the costs for applying two coats of paint because that's what it takes to get a descent paint finish. I don't say X amount for the first coat and x amount for additional coats. Some homeowners usually want to hear the cheaper one coat price, but usually after they see what the first coat finish looks like, some will pay for the additional coat of paint. Maybe that's the bait and switch.
Spraying paint:
I seldom use an airless sprayer, but rarely and only on certain occasions. Since most of the work I do are on homes that are occupied, spraying paint is not a very good option. A paint cloud of fine mist develops and floats all around the house putting a fine layer of paint dust on everything. Joy.
Eight to ten foot interior walls are easily painted with a roller, but if it was a large empty room, say a 16'x25' with 12'+ walls, cutting in with a brush and roller and then spraying the field would be the way to go.
Spraying paint works best on large amounts of relatively smooth, flat surfaces whereas some heavily textured surfaces are best served with the brush and roller technique. Paint spray tends to only coat the top of the surface being sprayed. The spray doesn't get down and around the deep crevices of some textured materials very well whereas a roller or brush loaded with paint can fill and cover up these materials quite easily.
Depending on the surface being painted, where it is located, and the size of the paint job all determines the possible option of spraying paint with an airless spraying unit.
Paint finishes:
Paint comes in several finishes for interior and exterior paints. Interior finishes start with flat, then satin, egg shell, semi-gloss, and gloss. Exterior paints have less finish options. Each finish has it's own level of hardness and sheen, and each finish has it's own intended non-strict use and purpose. There are a variety of finishes that are used in the average home.
There are many differing methods and techniques when it comes to painting, so I'm just going to stick with the basic painting process that I experience the most.
First off, prep work is ninety percent of the job. Prep work includes protecting the floor and all other objects that's not to be painted, taping off of all edges (especially if there is a shaky hand), surface prep, and finally the painting process itself.
What I prefer and look for when I do painting is solid coverage, clean edges and an even finish that doesn't peel from the wall. I'm sure that most people do too, but I tend to be pretty particular and harder on myself when it comes to the work that I do.
The following is a description of the painting process that I generally follow when it comes to paint overs and new construction.
Painting method:
This is the basic painting process that I follow in the quest of procuring the best paint job possible.
First off, covering everything that you don't want to get paint on is a no brainer. It really helps when the homeowner clears out the room before any remodel and painting work gets done, but I can and do often assist.
Depending on what's being painted, this is where the processes Y's off depending on what stage of work is being done.
Prepping a previously painted wall requires a few steps before I even begin to paint.
- Pull all nails, hooks, and anything protruding out of the wall's surface.
- Wall washing is a must! Years of build up from grime, nicotine, and body oils can cause fresh paint not to take. If the walls are in really bad shape, a coat of stainblocker/primer is then used for stainblocking and adhesion purposes. I've seen yellow walls that use to be white.
- Fill in all nail holes and divots. Vinyl spackle used here works very well. I try to use small amounts to avoid creating large smears around the holes. The finish on these smears look flatter than the walls painted finish, which is very noticeable.
- Light sanding is required on glossy finishes before painting. Glossy finishes are very smooth and hard. They need to be roughened up so that fresh paint has something to adhere to. Skipping this step can cause paint peel to happen.
- Before painting a light color over a dark color, a coat or two (as required) of stainblocker/primer should be applied first. Paint is lightly translucent and dark colors tend to bleed through which ends up requiring additional costly coats of paint. Paint also takes about 4-6 hours to dry before a second coat can be applied. Stainblocker/primer dries and is ready to paint in 30 minutes.
- Taping off of all essential edges. I have a pretty steady hand when it comes to cutting in, but if a more precise edge is mandatory, taping off with blue tape is done.
- Protect the floor with canvas tarps.
- Now I can cut in the ceiling edges, corners, fixtures, windows, doors, and floor with a paint brush, keeping an eye out for paint runs.
- Out in the field of a lightly textured wall, a roller with a 3/8" nap is used with a back roll pattern for even painting.
- Let paint dry. A second coat of paint has to be applied before I am satisfied with the finish. See below.
- Clean up.
Painting is a pretty standard process for everyone and most do follow procedure, but I've also seen where people shortcut the procedure of which has led to undesirable effects like paint peeling off the wall in large sheets. Ow.
Why two coats?
This is about paint and paint quality. I'm not brand specific as some are, but I don't use cheap paint, either. All brands like Valspar, Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Behr, etc. all have their brand specific, good quality paints ($$$) and they all also have their cheap quality paints. Some paint brands are just so cheap in quality that I just won't ever go there, while some paint brands are considered better than others.
Some clients have their paint brand preference and that's fine with me. In my humble opinion, there is NO such thing as one coat paint- or at least I have never come across any, regardless what the paint can reads. I have never been satisfied with a one coat finish, for I like a good solid finish.
Paint voids happen when paint congeals as it dries, leaving little white spots where the paint didn't take as it draws up. Paint voids happen because the wall texture has micro deep pockets and the paint isn't able to get down into them. No matter how much rolling one does over an area on the first coat, paint voids happen as the paint dries.
Brush marks from cutting in edges and corners are visible, more so with one coat of paint. Use a better paint brush? I use Purdy sash brushes and straight brushes of all different sizes. Purdy paint brushes are good brushes and they aren't cheap. I always end up cutting in the edges twice to get the desired result that I can live with.
Paint is only 4-5 mils thick when painted, allowing it to be translucent in nature. Any mark that didn't get stainblocked will show, especially if the paint is light in color. Shadows of roller tracks can be seen; little white paint voids and brush marks stick out, especially if the paint is a dark color. With a one coat cover, I'm very dissatisfied and I can never walk away calling it done. A second coat, more times than none, will fix most of these painting ailments.
When it comes to charging for a paint job, I charge one amount or figure into an estimate the costs for applying two coats of paint because that's what it takes to get a descent paint finish. I don't say X amount for the first coat and x amount for additional coats. Some homeowners usually want to hear the cheaper one coat price, but usually after they see what the first coat finish looks like, some will pay for the additional coat of paint. Maybe that's the bait and switch.
Spraying paint:
I seldom use an airless sprayer, but rarely and only on certain occasions. Since most of the work I do are on homes that are occupied, spraying paint is not a very good option. A paint cloud of fine mist develops and floats all around the house putting a fine layer of paint dust on everything. Joy.
Eight to ten foot interior walls are easily painted with a roller, but if it was a large empty room, say a 16'x25' with 12'+ walls, cutting in with a brush and roller and then spraying the field would be the way to go.
Spraying paint works best on large amounts of relatively smooth, flat surfaces whereas some heavily textured surfaces are best served with the brush and roller technique. Paint spray tends to only coat the top of the surface being sprayed. The spray doesn't get down and around the deep crevices of some textured materials very well whereas a roller or brush loaded with paint can fill and cover up these materials quite easily.
Depending on the surface being painted, where it is located, and the size of the paint job all determines the possible option of spraying paint with an airless spraying unit.
Paint finishes:
Paint comes in several finishes for interior and exterior paints. Interior finishes start with flat, then satin, egg shell, semi-gloss, and gloss. Exterior paints have less finish options. Each finish has it's own level of hardness and sheen, and each finish has it's own intended non-strict use and purpose. There are a variety of finishes that are used in the average home.
- Flat paint is best used on ceilings because of it's ability to absorb light. It also looks chalky in nature.
- Satin paint is the next sheen up the scale and it is best used on living area walls such as the dining room, bedrooms, hallways, living room, etc. It also has some light absorbency traits and is washable.
- Egg-shell paint is a harder paint with a slight more sheen than satin. Egg-shell paint is washable and it's best used in bathrooms and kitchen areas where moisture and grime potential is higher than normal.
- Semi-gloss and glossy enamel paints are the hardest of all the finishes with a shine and best suited for decor items such as trim, casings, base trim, crown mouldings, doors, etc. It's very washable.
Not sure as to where you are at? Please click here for the Sitemap.
